Kyoto in winter - Let's Try Hands-on Activities

 Ko-do
Kungyoku-do
Traditional 'do's' such as cha-do (tea ceremony) and ka-do (Japanese flower arrangement) have long been admired by Japanese people. Ko-do is another such respected aspect of traditional Japanese culture and is held in such high regard that along with the aforementioned two 'do's', it is said to be the third of the nation's three main forms of unique culture.

"Ko" in Japanese means incense, and ko-do is the studying and enjoyment of incense. Ko-do is said to have originated in Kyoto in the 16th century and Kungyoku-do, has been preserving the traditions associated with the Shino-ryu-style of ko-do since it opened around 400 years ago - across from the Honganji Temple in Kyoto. If interested in ko-do, please do visit Kungyoku-do and partake in one of their ko-do lessons for beginners. I was fortunate enough to meet Mr. Yoshihiro Nakamura, the ko-do instructor in the shop who, amidst a most noble setting, prior to the "mon-ko" activity of "ko-do," delivered a lecture on incense.

History
It was the late 6th century when the Japanese were first introduced to incense. It is believed that passers by came across a piece of wood on a beach on Awajishima Island - not far from the city of Osaka. The driftwood as was is said to have been the first such "ko" to have reached Japan.

Soon thereafter, the use of incense spread among Japan's aristocracy and was so well established by the 8th century. "The Tale of Genji" (written in the 10th century) includes mention of incense as a fashion item used by the upper-classes of the day. At the time, the fragrance of incense was applied to their hair and clothes - used to express a person's personality and presence.

From this point of view, 'ko' is similar to the perfumes used in Western countries. By the 16th century, much of Japan's traditional culture base had been solidified. Supported by the Shogun, Yoshimasa Ashikaga, the foundations of today's ko-do were laid at this time.

What is "mon-ko"?
"Mon-ko" in Japanese is a game used to guess fragrances and there are as many as 250 variations of the game. Participants in Kungyoku-do's lesson experience of "san-shu-ko" can enjoy one of the games by guessing the combination of three fragrances as follows:
1) The host prepares small nine packages of incense, with three pieces of incense taken from three different kinds of (incense) wood.
2) The host selects three packages at random; keeping the choice concealed from the participants and burns them individually. Participants take-in the fragrance and try to identify any differences.
3) After each of the participants has had time to sample each of the three selected packets they write down their answers and any correct answers are announced.

Kungyoku-do offers a highly regarded type of incense called "jin-ko," made from natural incense wood. Each "jin-ko" has its own fragrance. "In addition, the fragrance of incense is susceptible to changes in the temperature of incense bowls and of course the human sense of smell has its own moods based on physical and psychological conditions. ThereforeÉ" smiled Mr. Nakamura, "It's (only) natural that you don't get right answer. So, you should not be nervous. What you should do is to inhale the fragrances, relax, and enjoy (yourself)."

Experiencing "san-shu-ko"
After the lecture, we moved to a Japanese-style room to start "san-shu-ko." As in cha-do ko-do has its own rules. Under Mr. Nakamura's instruction, I held an incense bowl close to my face, and inhaled the fragrance. Soon after I realized that the fragrance had spread to my chest.

"Now, remember the fragrance. If you just think it smells good, you will not remember it. You need to associate (the fragrance) with something familiar to you." I recall enjoying several fragrances and smells I had previously come across and tried to build a certain image. Repeating this process, I felt myself relaxing due to the effect of the incense.

After enjoying the three types of incense, we revealed our answers. As a rule, answers are written symbolically in words such as "Snow on a lone mountain," or "Green trees" by participants who use Japanese writing brushes. The correct answer was announced but unfortunately 'twas not my answer Mr. Nakamura read aloud. When speaking, Mr. Nakamura again smiled, and said, "As I said earlier, if you do not select the right answer, it is only natural. If you do, just feel happy." He was right. After we had fully inhaled such pleasant fragrances, we no longer felt any annoyance or stress.

After the lesson
I actually was nervous before this lesson, however, when it was over I found I had really calmed down and felt fully relaxed. I had learned how to enjoy incense and agreed when Mr. Nakamura emphasized his desire that not only people who are interested in Japanese culture (should visit), but also people who are busy with their every day lives. Just enjoy fragrances and relax.

 Incense Bag Making
EN-YA, Kyoto Handicraft Center
Kyoto is famous for its many traditional handicrafts and if you are looking for the chance to try out any particular form of handicraft be sure to visit EN-YA at the Kyoto Handicraft Center. EN-YA offers nine types of hands-on activity with each taking only about one hour. Of the nine, here we will select and introduce the activity of incense bag making.

Starting with a lecture on spices used in Japan since the early days of recorded history and then moving onto the bowls used to store the three main types of domestic incense; a mixture of sandal wood and clove or cinnamon based, an instructor explains the steps of incense bag making in simple terms.
Step 1) Mix the spice as preferred 2) Stuff into two small bags, one which is made of the renowned and gorgeous Nishijin (a famous textile from Kyoto) fabric, and the other of cute Chirimen fabric.

Personally, I started by selecting two pretty bags. Scooping the individually prepared spices and checking their scent, I stuffed my 'blend' into a bag - all the time with the instructor nearby ready to help should it be necessary.

"(Being) different from Chirimen, Nishijin bags are a little too firm to deal with easily so spices don't slide in so smoothly. To produce a nice shape, manipulate the bag using your fingers so that it doesn't have excessive space (when sealed)."

Following her kind and appropriate tips, finally, I completed my pair of tiny incense bags and enjoyed savoring the freshly prepared odor.

These incense bags could be kept as a memory of a trip to Japan's former capital, or, if wrapped in the provided paper bags, can be offered as a perfect Kyoto souvenir to friends or family.

Producing and taking away your work is one of the true pleasures of hands-on activities such as this and after this experience, I felt as though I would like to try out and enjoy as many activities as possible, I believe anyone who visits EN-YA will feel the same.

 Contacts
Kungyoku-do: Nishihonganjimae, Horikawa-dori, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto Tel 075-371-0162 9am-5.30pm
http://www.kungyokudo.co.jp/
[Ko-do Class]
Held for 2 persons and above: weekdays (NB: not available the 2nd & 4th Thursdays and the 1st & 3rd Saturdays of the month)
Single person classes: Friday
Time: Classes are held twice a day. 10am to about noon and 2pm to about 4pm
Includes: A lecture on Ko, an explanation of Ko-do, actual experiencing of Ko-do (all classes are held in Japanese and take about 2 hours)
Fee: 2000 yen per person (including sweets and powdered green tea)
Reservations, a necessity, are permitted up to 2 days prior to class date.

EN-YA: 7F Handicraft Center, 21 Shogoin Entomi-cho, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto Tel 075-761-0142 10am-5pm
http://www.khc-kyoto.jp/
Courses available (Duration of each - approx: 1 hour):
Cloisonne incense sachet, ceramic bell doll, seven-spice pepper (shichimi), woodblock printing, etc.
Fee: 1890 yen - 3990 yen per person
Classes are held in Japanese and English. No appointment or reservations necessary.
There are many other places at which to experience hands-on activities such as making Japanese confectionery, zazen (the sitting mediation form of Zen), preparation of shojinryouri (vegetarian food), pottery and much more. Kyoto is full of things to do and try and we will feature a number of other activities next time.

 Maps
Japan Railway Map PDF 414 KB
Central Kyoto PDF 769 KB

 Links
Kyoto Prefecture
Kyoto City
Kyoto City Tourist Association