Kyoto in winter - A walk around the heart of Kyoto

Kyoto was Japan's capital for more than 1000 years; a tenure few cities around the world can currently lay claim to. As a result it is sometimes possible to witness historical scenes just by walking around town or by having casual conversations with the locals - the folk responsible for keeping Kyoto culture and traditions alive and proud but also charged with screening and 'upgrading' them in an ever changing world.

 Incense from the ancient capital
Kyoto is a city offering some experience by way of its scents and if you notice any delicate scents as you wander, it may be originating in Shoyeido, located in Nijo close to the Gosho Imperial Palace. Shoyeido, established in 1705 is one of the oldest incense shops in Kyoto and is perhaps best located by following your nose. The shop produces stick-incense, aromatic wood chips and incense sachets with a family tradition based on secret recipes that has continued over twelve generations. Shoyeido is not all about tradition, however, as the master blenders continue to create new and innovative products by combining centuries of experience with modern technologies.

These sachets were awarded the gold prize at the "Miryokuaru Nihon no Omiyage Contest" (attractive Japanese souvenirs contest) conducted by the 2005 Visit Japan Campaign (VJC) - a contest which selects the most attractive souvenirs for those visiting Japan from overseas. The sachets were highly commended in terms of design, size and price. Cut and blended, several kinds of herbs and aromatic wood chip filled sachets and can add a subtle fragrance to your clothing or even to the whole room. Some sachets are made of Nishijin (a famous textile produced in Kyoto) and carry off an elegant but slightly masculine feel - suitable for both sexes. The sachets are available at souvenir shops in Narita, Kansai International and Haneda airports as well at Shoyeido outlets.

 Well Established Shops
"How many individuals have preceded the current owner?" you may ask of some of the much respected shops in Kyoto. When asking this of a person representing a long-term, well established company, you will often receive incredible but nonchalant answers from someone not wishing to show their pride. Given that Shoyeido is currently under its 12th head and was established 300 years ago it is one of the older shops in Kyoto but a good many shops have been around for more than a century. Only by maintaining their individual business practices and traditions and through huge efforts with perhaps a dash of good fortune is this possible.

Honke Owariya, a sedate soba restaurant located near Subway Karasuma Oike Station, was established in 1465, a full 541 years ago. It is one of the oldest of the old in Kyoto and was originally a confectionery store serving soba noodles as a side business. It changed its setup to focus mainly on soba during the Edo period, serving, over time, the Imperial Palace, and continuing today with Prince Akishino and Princess Kiko, parents of the 3rd in line to the Japanese throne and visitors thereselves several years ago. The head of the family running Owariya traditionally adopts the name Denzaemon.

It is often said that the food in Kyoto is less flavored than elsewhere but this 'fact' is not completely true. The color of the broth looks pale or light and is thus associated with having a weaker flavor but the taste itself is full and memorable. "The variety of delicious food in Kyoto (should be) attributed to a good and ample local underground water supply," said the 15th Denzaemon. "(The) water in Kyoto and dried kelp (used in cooking) both contribute to making a good broth - the base of its rich yet mellow flavor."

 Nice and clear - Kyoto's water
You cannot talk about food in Kyoto without mention of Kyoto water. According to one traditional myth there is a vast pot of water beneath the city containing the same amount, (or perhaps more) water as Lake Biwa. Supplied from this pot, countless underground rivers and streams in addition to their over ground brethren have contributed to the food culture of Kyoto.

Mamemasa is no exception. "Before cooking (the) beans, we soak them in the water. The taste of our beans can be attributed to the water. That's because the water is good." Mamemasa is located along Ebisugawa-dori on the south side of the Gosho Imperial Palace and is surrounded by delightful old houses. Established in 1884, Mamemasa is sometimes called "a department store of beans," dealing in healthy and delicious beans and related confectionery. Visitors can buy any amount of colorful beans as are displayed in the store but can first sample the items that attract the most. In Japan, beans have long been regarded as a lucky food. "Ebisugawa Goshikimame," one of the most famous souvenirs Kyoto produces was invented by Mamemasa's founder and consists of 5-colors of bean representing the earth: green for trees, pink (red) for fire, yellow for soil, white for gold and brown for water.

 Teramachi
There are several 'specialist' streets in Kyoto along which stores dealing in the same goods do business side-by-side. Ebisugawa-dori is known for its furniture stores while Nijo-dori houses pharmacists and wholesalers. Teramachi was once home to many antique stores but is now a quiet street on which can be found Ippodo - a tea and tea utensil dealer, Kakimoto (paper traders) and several others.

The origins of Kakimoto date back to the 18th century - a time many bamboo stores did business around the Teramachi-Nijo area. Kakimoto was initially but one of these stores before changing its business and becoming a paper wholesaler in 1845 - after realizing that so many stores in one area supplying the same bamboo products was unwise. Today the store deals in both traditional Japanese and also foreign produced paper. Japanese paper has been much refined over time by generations of skilled craftsmen and handmade paper is also popular among foreign tourists.

If you have the time, why not take a stroll and visit one or more of these well established and much venerated stores in the heart of Kyoto?

 Maps
Japan Railway Map PDF 414 KB
Central Kyoto PDF 769 KB

 Links
Kyoto Prefecture
Kyoto City
Kyoto City Tourist Association