Kyoto in winter - Kyogashi

For around 1000-years, from the late 8th century through to the end of the 19th century, Kyoto was the capital city and cultural center of Japan. For that reason, learning about 'Kyo-gashi' necessitates learning a little bit about the history of Kyoto.

Throughout its existence, Kyoto was the seat of power of many an emperor and many a shogun. Partly for this reason there was a large demand for rice cakes and sweets to be served at ritual events in the imperial palace or at governmental facilities. In addition, with Kyoto the center of the famed Japanese tea ceremony, the city was the natural location at which to develop confectionery to accompany the tea. On a more practical vein, location and nature also played a role in that good clean water is locally available as are / were sweet beans. From these two items and the presence of the nation's leaders and their associated arts and hobbies, both culture and nature have contributed greatly to the types of artistic and sophisticated confectionery produced over the centuries in Kyoto.

In the late 18th century, aiming at quality control and in order to to ban excessive production, the right to run a confectionery shop in Kyoto was limited to a chosen few and it is believed the agreement under which 248 shops 'qualified' to produce confectionery gave rise to the brand name and the quality thereafter so respected as Kyogashi.

Thus, in the center of political turmoil and ever improving forms of cultural prowess, Kyo-gashi continued to develop; it continued to define itself. Then, in the middle of the 19th century, Kyo-gashi along with so much in the former capital was affected by the (Meiji) emperor's decision to move to Tokyo, the new capital, as part of the Meiji Restoration. Many confectionery shops followed the emperor and moved east to Tokyo thereby helping to spread the brand name of Kyo-gashi producers far beyond the limitations of Kyoto.

 Oimatsu
Old yet sophisticated houses line the quiet streets on the east of Kitano Tenmangu in an area known as Kamishichiken - the oldest hanamachi (entertainment town) area in Kyoto. At the heart of Kamishichiken is a confectionery shop with an indigo noren (shop curtain). "This noren, on which 'steamed cake' and 'dry confectionery' is written, represents Oimatsu's innermost confidence and pride," says Ms. Miura, staff member of Oimatsu. "With our skill and pride in our work," Miura continued, "Oimatsu can produce any kind of sweet."

Oimatsu today produces special confectionery for use in the tea ceremony; not an easy task. "Confectionery for the tea ceremony should be made in original form by the host although we confectioners take on this task in place of the host nowadays. We discuss with the host the appearance, taste, color and name of the sweet most fitting for the season and their mood - the sweets best suited to fully represent the host's desired form of hospitality for a given ceremony. The harder the order, the more challenging the job becomes for us confectioners," Miura then added.

'Goshoguruma' is a sweet, adzuki-bean paste covered by a thin but crunchy skin, put in a mold and pressed. On its surface is imprinted a design representing a 'goshoguruma' (ox carriage used by the imperial court). Oimatsu makes other sweets with designs also associated with the court. 'Tambataro,' for example, is made from adzuki beans, chestnuts and agar produced in Tamba, Kyoto Prefecture: Autumn on the taste buds courtesy of the large chestnuts it contains.

'Natsukanto' is sold from April to September when natsumikan (Chinese citron) is available - depending on the year. After being washed, the top of a large natsumikan is cut away and the fruit is hollowed out. The resulting juice is then mixed in with boiled agar and the mixture is reinserted into the fruit to enable it to turn into a form of jelly. Each step can only be achieved by hand. When tasted, the initial reaction is to the juice; the acidity following just behind.

Oimatsu now has a class in which it teaches how to make Japanese sweets. The class draws many foreign visitors as well as Japanese. "Japanese people usually make the sweets recommended by the staff, but foreigners sometimes show their originality and less restricted spirit. For example, they sometimes make three smaller sweets using the ingredients for just one. One reason perhaps is a freedom from prejudice but it is interesting to see guests from different countries making sweets that go some way to representing their respective characters and backgrounds," Ms. Miura said with a smile.
Oimatsu

 Kawabata Doki
It has been more than 500 years since Kawabata Doki first opened in Kyoto and in the centuries since, the confectionery shop has continually been producing 'chimaki' (a dumpling wrapped in bamboo leaves) as well as various other types of confectionery designed specially for the tea ceremony. Many famous characters in Japanese history such as Toyotomi Hideyoshi (16th century) and Sen-no-rikyu (the tea master who essentially created the tea ceremony in the 16th century) appear in the annals of Kawabata family history. Of particular note is the connection with the Imperial Family which started in the late 15th century when the first owner of Kawabata Doki offered breakfast to the then displaced Emperor during a time of nationwide confusion and poverty following ten years of war. Since that time, Kawabata has continued to offer breakfast at the same time day in, day out. Perhaps as a result, the shop was, for centuries thereafter a favorite of the reigning Emperor and continued to produce rice cakes and confectionery for certain annual events at the palace. It was in the 19th century however, that the relationship changed when, during the Meiji Restoration, the Emperor moved to Tokyo. Kawabata Doki remained in Kyoto and made the decision to focus on confectionery for use in the tea ceremonies that take place in Kyoto.

Throughout the long and dramatic history of Kawabata Doki, 'Suisen-chimaki' has never fallen from favor and the sweet still attracts due to the fresh combination of bamboo leaves and perfectly smooth dumplings made using kudzu flour. Surprisingly, its production process remains almost unchanged; the intervening 500 years only seeing the shop turn to using gas instead of wood stoves.

Why doesn't or won't the shop change its techniques and methods used? "Because We CANNOT change. It's getting hard to secure decent bamboo leaves and kudzu flour in the modern world; however, we have to keep the quality of (our) ingredients (as high as possible). The reason is simple. Chimaki made from poor ingredients is easily spoilt during the process of boiling. In addition, the process of wrapping dumplings in bamboo leaves cannot be mechanized. For this reason we just choose to retain our style (of old)" said Mrs. Chikako Kawabata - wife of the 16th generation owner of the store.

"As a result, our fresh chimaki is really delicious! We take care so that our customers only get the freshest and best chimaki possible." This is the reason Kawabata Doki never retains stock. One of the mottos of the Kawabata family is: "Do not produce excessively - simply aim for quality." This sounds easy but in fact does require a lot of effort.

As you can see from the above, the culture and climate of Kyoto has helped foster various forms of unique and fantastic confectionery. Who can resist such charms - try some for yourself.

Kyoto in winter
Higashiyama
Traditional performing arts of Japan
A walk around the heart of Kyoto
Arashiyama / Sagano / Hozukyo / Kameoka
Miyama / Tango
Let's try Hands-on activities

 Maps
Japan Railway Map PDF 414 KB
Central Kyoto PDF 769 KB

 Links
Kyoto Prefecture
Kyoto City
Kyoto City Tourist Association