Kyoto in winter - Higashiyama

Higashiyama is one of the most attractive areas of Kyoto with numerous famous places at which to really feel the city.

 Kiyomizudera Temple to Yasaka Jinja
"Jump down from the stage of Kiyomizu," is one of the most famous phrases-cum-dares in Japan. The so called 'stage' of Kiyomizu is actually more of an open veranda and forms part of the main hall of Kiyomizudera Temple. At a height of 15 meters, it enables visitors to take in the whole of the city - a view made all the more special in spring and autumn when cherry blossoms and autumn leaves serve to almost frame the view. In addition to the view, the building itself is also worthy of note given that it is an amazing combination of 139 pillars but not one nail.

Kiyomizudera was first erected in 798AD and takes up 130,000 square meters of land on the hillside of Mount Otowa. Entering through the Niomon gate, visitors can reach Kiyomizu's 'stage' by following the path round to the right. From here, there are two routes to continue the walk - the first being a simple walk down to Otowanotaki (waterfall), the other a walk to Okuno-in from which the whole of Kyoto is visible once past the Amida-do. The water springing forth from Otowanotaki is famous for its taste and will gurgle peacefully in the background this autumn and early winter when a special exhibition running from November 11th to December 3rd, will see the stage / veranda lit up in a most solemn manner. The garden of Joju-in, normally closed is set to be opened to the public during the same period.

Two slopes, one called Sanneizaka, the other Ninenzaka link Kiyomizudera Temple with Kodaiji Temple and are lined with machiya (traditional town houses in Kyoto) that have long since been converted for use as souvenir shops, Japanese sweet shops and restaurants.

Kodaiji Temple was founded in 1605 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi's wife Nene to enable her to perform religious rites for the repose of his departed soul. The garden was laid by Kobori Enshu and is one of the nation's most famous gardens from the Momoyama era. The temple itself is built on the mountainside and features Kaizando; a garden with a pond set in a flat portion of the temple precincts, Tamaya (a mausoleum) and 2 tearooms on the slope in the eastern part of the grounds. The tearooms are renowned as having been moved here from Fushimi Castle to the south. The mausoleum is used to worship the deceased spirit of Nene and is adorned with beautiful Kodaiji maki-e - a well known form of lacquer made in the Momoyama era.

A special exhibition is held in the evening every spring and autumn, and the autumn 2006 version will take place between November 11th and December 3rd. The precincts are lit up and the combination of water and lights intermingling is a site to behold. Trees on the slopes near the temple are illuminated and thus reflect on the surface of the pond. "Yobanashi," tea ceremonies on winter's nights are held on Saturdays and Sundays from December 1st to 10th, 2006 and again from January 12th to March 11th, 2007.

Ishibekoji is a stone-paved alley near Nene-no-michi running in front of Kodaiji. With many venerable ryokan and Japanese restaurants situated here, and being lined with machiya townhouses, the atmosphere is sometimes popular for use in filming scenes for movies.

Yasaka Shrine was built in the early Heian period and is often called "Gion-san" by Kyoto locals. It is believed that the shrine houses the guardian (god) of Kyoto. To the east of Yasaka Jinja, itself in eastern Kyoto lies Maruyama Park. Noted for its autumn colors erupting from the branches of many trees each December, the park is equally regarded in spring when weeping willow cherry blossoms are a must-see and draw the crowds. Located on the foot of the mountain, the park merges with the Higashiyama area and serves as home to such respected ryokan as "Hatanaka."

The entertainment districts of Gion and Shijo-kawaramachi are not too far from Maruyama and just by crossing Higashi-Oji Street and walking west; Gion Shimbashi can be reached in less than 10 minutes. The stone-paved streets here are full of old townhouses with bamboo blinds hung beneath their eaves. "Dedegumo", a shop dealing in Japanese accessories somehow related to Kyoto has its origins in a Kyoto machiya and "Hiyoshido" in Gion, a healing salon at which acupuncture, shiatsu and massage are all practiced also started out in similar surrounds. When tired out by all the sightseeing, why not pop-in and pay them a visit?

Hanami-koji, a well known street in the Gion area retains an olde worlde atmosphere reminiscent of the ancient capital. Teahouses and restaurants reign supreme and the sight of maiko out for a stroll is not unusual. Gion Corner, a spot known locally as being one of the best at which to sample classical performing arts is not far away.

 From Chion-in to Heian Shrine
Chion-in has a vast wooden Sanmon Gate - 24 meters in height and with a 27 meter crossbeam. The gate and its stone steps even appeared in the movie of The Last Samurai. Chion-in is the head temple of the Jodo-shu sect of Buddhism and has an astounding 106 temples situated in the precincts. Miei-do, a majestic building with a "wasure-gasa," (Japanese umbrella), hanging under the eaves is said to have received its odd decoration from the famous Edo period sculptor Hidari Jingoro who left it there to ward off evil spirits. There are many interesting points to see in and around the precincts such as Uguisubari-no-roka, a hallway floorboard that emits a bird-like chirp when trodden upon and Sanpo-shomen-mamuki-neko - a painting of cats.

Jungumichi Street is the route usually taken from Chion-in to Okazaki but the path along Shirakawa Canal to the west of Jingumichi is also attractive. The path, the canal, the houses situated alongside and the trees lining the route all combine to create a pleasant strolling environment as does the simple Gyojabashi bridge - a simple structure cut of stone.

Gion Morikoh, a Chinese restaurant on the Shirakawa Canal serves simple but tasty fare and is often sought out by local gourmets.

The majestic vermillion tori of Heian Jingu straddles the street and indicates you are nearing the shrine. Heian-Jingu was constructed in the 28th year of the Meiji Emperor's reign (1895) to commemorate the 1100th anniversary of the foundation of the Heian capital. A vast garden of 30,000 square meters, recorded for the beauty of its flowers in the Tale of Genji, Taiheikaku is a must see and is especially beautiful when covered with snow.

Throughout the year, numerous events take place in the gardens such as, focusing on autumn and winter here - Shichigosan, The Seven-Five-Three Festival (a traditional Japanese event to celebrate children's growth and pray for their future health and well-being), New Year's visits to the shrine and also Setsubun - the Bean-Throwing Festival.

Museums dot the streets in the area around the shrine and particularly interesting is the Hosomi Museum which displays Japanese art collected by the Hosomi family. When finished looking around the exhibits, visitors can enjoy the view of Higashiyama from a tearoom on the top floor. Why not drop by to eat Japanese sweets and drink powdered green tea (no reservation necessary).

A morning market will be held in Okazaki Park and also in Heian Jingu on the last Saturday and Sunday of February enabling local specialties from around Kyoto to go on sale to all comers.

To the north of Heian Jingu, walkers will come across the Kyoto Handicraft Center. Designed as a large-scale souvenir shop for foreigners, the center offers tax free shopping for passport holders and visitors can find many of Kyoto's most traditional types of craft on sale. Even the act of window shopping is fun.

For modern art buffs head to the Imura Art Gallery to appreciate the paintings of Japanese artists - a number of which come from the Kyoto area.

Waraku-an, a guest house, in this area started out as a machiya built more than 100 years ago but was later repaired and opened as a guest house on July 7th, 2006.

 From Nanzenji Temple to Ginkakuji Temple
Nanzenji Temple is the head temple of the Nanzenji School of the Rinzai-shu sect of Buddhism and the huge Sanmon Gate is almost as large as that of Chion-in. Those visitors with the energy can climb inside the gate look over this part of the town from a point near the top of the gate if so desired - while the Hojo (priest's hall) may captivate others interested more in peace and quiet as it is home to a Zen Buddhist dry garden built in the early Edo period.

In the south-eastern part of the temple precincts an old waterway, running now along a modern brick structure laid atop Romanesque arches, still carries water into the city from Lake Biwa and around Nanzenji Temple. There are many famous yudofu (boiled tofu) restaurants including Okutan and Junsei as well as venerable Japanese restaurants such as Hyotei.

Eikando, formally called Danrinji Temple is not far away and was built more than 1000 years ago. The temple is well known for its scenery in autumn made all the more colorful thanks to its many trees. The temple is home to paintings including one painted by famous painter Hasegawa Tohaku.

When climbing the Tahoto (tower), a view over the city emerges and because the temple is located at the foot of a mountain, the layout of the buildings is different when compared to those of temples built on flatter land. In addition to the regular 'horizontal' view, visitors can also enjoy a 'vertical' view. As the Amidado and Kaizendo temples are built on the slopes, the curvature of the steps connecting the buildings is extremely interesting.

If you go to Nyakuoji Shrine, you will see the souvenir shop Toryanse selling original accessories, soaps and other souvenirs.

From Nyakuoji Shrine to Ginkakuji, enjoy walking the Tetsugaku-no-michi - a 1.5km path running parallel to the canal. The philosopher Kitaro Nishida enjoyed long walks here, imparting to it the name of The Path of Philosophy. The water level is not so high so tends to flow quietly, rarely if ever heard. The path is well known for cherry blossoms and in spring, cherry trees on both sides of the canal form a pink tunnel of sorts with flower petals on the surface of the water sometimes keeping up with the many walkers they attract. To avoid the crowds come in the winter when the path is not too crowded and you can enjoy walking quietly.

Honen-in is well known for its autumn leaves and camellias and on the approach to the temple, after a climb up some stone steps, you will find yourself in a heavily wooded area. Dark and quiet, even in the daytime, a thatched gate on the approach is often a welcome sight and adds to the area's atmosphere. Entering the main hall is permitted for only a few days each year but simply strolling around the grounds is fun in and of itself.

Finally, at the end of the path you will reach Ginkakuji Temple - constructed in 1482 by Ashikaga Yoshimasa - the 8th Shogun of the Ashikaga Shogunate. The temple is a haven of Higashiyama culture of the time and of particular beauty and import is the garden. Said to imitate that of Saihoji Temple, Ginkakuji's gardens are ideal for strolling with a small pond, hillside location and small waterfall all playing their part.

Kyoto in winter
Traditional performing arts of Japan
Kyogashi
A walk around the heart of Kyoto
Arashiyama / Sagano / Hozukyo / Kameoka
Miyama / Tango
Let's try Hands-on activities

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 Links
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Kyoto City Tourist Association